I was hoping to get a dresser waxed this morning, but we had drizzle earlier and my paint shack is too crowded to do that sort of work in at the minute (I bend down and my bum knocks over various paraphernalia – I’d like to say it’s the shed that’s small, not my bum that’s big, but…)
So, instead of waxing, I decided to put the new paint through its paces. It’s quite a useful experiment because I have 2 identical pine console tables that are being painted. They’ve both been prepped in exactly the same way (sanded and primed); one is being painted in Farrow & Ball ‘French Gray’, the other in the new paint. The reason I went for the French Gray is that it’s a fairly similar colour to the new one, so I’ll get a good idea about coverage and finish. Here are the tables after their first coats:
French Gray on the left, new chalk paint on the right
My first impression of the paint is that it’s nothing like Annie Sloan Chalk Paint (ASCP) to work with. The paint is thinner in texture and when it’s first painted on, it is more like painting with one of the acrylic eggshell paints. It goes on very smoothly. The drying time is longer than the ASCP, which could be a bonus in summer, when ASCP dries on contact and can be problematic if you want to go back over a section (the paint tends to lift and drag). I do have a soft spot for ASCP, so the new paint will be fairly tested with me. When the new paint was first applied, it looked very much like the French Gray eggshell, with a fair bit of sheen, but the first coat did try matt. I’m second coating this afternoon and will hopefully wax it tomorrow or Monday.
Coverage of the new paint was comparable to the French Gray. I’d have liked to put the paint on a bit more generously, but only have small pots to work with.
This is what the paint looked like after the second coat. My hubby was still painting the French Gray table, so I didn’t get a side by side pic:
the chalk paint after second coat
The paint was still a little wet on the drawers when I took the pic, hence it looks a bit patchy, but it did dry evenly. Here’s a side view:
side view after second coat of chalk paint
What better way to spend a Saturday afternoon than watching paint dry:-)
The paint dried ultra matt, pretty much the same as ASCP but with less texture (because it goes on thinner). The second coat went on nicely, with enough ‘grab’, but no dragging. I had to go over one leg a third time, but I think that was down to ‘pilot error’ in poor light, rather than the paint being poor on coverage. I’m going to reserve my opinion of the paint until it’s been waxed, but at the minute I’m loving it. It goes on smooth, dries nicely and that all important matt finish is there. I found that the second coat dried a little quicker than the first coat, but I did have time to go over some bits that I wasn’t happy with, without the paint getting dragged off, or going into chalk balls. I found it easier to get into the nooks and crannies with this paint, because it’s that bit thinner, it’s easier to ‘chisel’ the paint into the corners. Quite often, I have to use a small artist’s brush to get into corners with the ASCP, particularly with the second coats when the paint goes on thickly.
I haven’t been given any specific instructions on waxing, so will wax the new paint in the same way that I do the ASCP. If I’m happy with the finish, I’m going to need some 1 litre pots of the paint to try it on some bigger items. The colour cards show some very pretty shades; there are lots of greys, blues and creams/beiges to choose from. The colours I’ve already been given aren’t particularly to my taste, so I’ll be wanting some shades that are within the range of colours I currently use with other brands.
I’ll keep you posted…
The Barrister's Horse 
I’ve been a lurker for a while and enjoy reading about the fabulous transformations you create.
I was wondering why do you sand/prime before using ASCP (I know you have mentioned doing so before)? One of my main loves of Annie’s paint is the fact you need minimal/no prep.
Is the new chalk paint yet to be launched? Can you reveal any more info about it?
Kind regards,
S x
Old habits die hard Sarah:-) When I first started using the chalk paints, I had problems with resin/stain bleed and found that coverage in the paler shades was also problem. A lot of the furniture I paint is quite dark; typical anitique/vintage dark oaks and mahogany, which take some covering and I’ve found that by using a sealant/bonder/primer it is better in the long run, as on the whole less coats are needed.
Sometimes I’m not sure of which paint I’m going to use (acrylics or chalk) on a particular piece, so prep it before deciding.
I do sometimes skip the prep, but sanding back is painful if I get a resin bleed, so I’m quite cautious.
Glad you’re liking the blog – long may you lurk:-)
That’s interesting, I sometimes have trouble with bleed through with the ASCP white shades and find another coat does the trick but if I used primer it would be cheaper in the long run. Which primer do you recommend? Is it water based? I paint in the house (am hoping to get a shed like yours eventually!!) so can’t be doing with anything too smelly.
BTW I have horses too, including a piebald cob :0)
S x
I do find that it’s cheaper in the long run to use a primer. I use Ronseal primer/knot block. It’s water based and has a slight odour, but nothing much. I’m sure other brands do much the same job, I just stick with what I know.
I wouldn’t be without my lovely cob; he’s the apple of my eye (and about as round as an apple at the minute!). I’m afraid he rules the roost and life tends to revolve around Jasper:-)
Sorry Sarah, I missed the bit where you asked about the chalk paint. I’m waiting until I’ve given it a proper try out before I kiss and tell. I’ve yet to see how it waxes and how it looks after a day or two, once the wax has settled.
Having been a professional painter I have to say the claims that ASCP can be used straight on to an un-prepared surface are a little hard to accept. Being old school I was always taught that prep is everything, and when you’ve done rubbing down, rub it down some more.
I would always carry out a priming and knott blocking routine before painting, as you say,it saves on the finish colour and there is nothing worse than rectifying problems just when you think you have finished.
I have experimented with this paint on prepared and unprepared surfaces and I have to say it sticks a whole lot better after a bit of rubbing down, especially on shiny veneered furniture.
while I enjoy using ASCP paint immensely I think this is a dangerous claim to make especially as it may lead the user to assume that not even a basic dewaxing or degreasing operation is required, also a nicely sanded surface will stop the paint from dragging so much when the second coat is applied. And finally, as the piece ages I like my shabby chic paint to look as if it has been worn thin by the sands of time rather than seeing big lumps missing because it has chipped off.
I can’t really add more to what you said Dave, because your opinions mirror mine exactly.
I do sometimes skip the full prep if I’m going for the ‘chippy’ informal look, but most of my stuff is quite mainstream, so I go through the prep procedure on the majority of pieces.
I had a very annoying bureau experience a while back. I gave the ply back just a quickie one coat with primer, painted it duck egg blue and got up the next day to see that the mahogany stained ply had bled through the paint, leaving beetroot coloured stains all over it. What a pain! Back to square one I went…